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A Wild Idea Adirondack Green

Arthur V. Savage

on Upper Ausable Lake, 1960s

The Adirondack Park has lots of friends in high places, and Arthur V. Savage (1926-2012) seemed to know all of them.  Well-connected men accomplished great things in mid-20th century America, in part, because their privilege was rarely questioned.  But Arthur was a rare creature. He was a man of great influence who was not stuffy.  In fact, he was fun to have around.

Arthur curated jokes.  When I interviewed him in 2008, he began by impersonating his grandfather telling two of his favorites. They were early 20th-century chestnuts about a rural Irish couple and a toothless man; they were not very funny, and also slightly offensive. But the clip is extraordinary because Arthur’s grandfather was Augustus Noble Hand (1869-1954), a pillar of American jurisprudence.

Augustus Hand served with his cousin, Learned Hand (1872-1961), on the Federal District Court and Second Circuit Court of Appeals in New York City.  Augustus wrote or concurred in the decisions that legalized condoms, allowed James Joyce’s Ulysses to be published in the United States, codified the rules for conscientious objection to military service, reorganized the film industry, and much more. But Arthur wanted me to know that this eminent jurist was also Gus, a country lawyer from the small Champlain Valley village of Elizabethtown. Gus cultivated that image and passed it on to Arthur, his beloved and only male descendant. Arthur re-told Gus’ jokes to make that point. Listen to the clip here:

Savage recalls Augustus Hand’s sense of humor

Arthur spent a great deal of time volunteering to protect the wide-open character of the Adirondack Park. He was a founding trustee of The Adirondack Museum (now The Adirondack Experience) in 1952 and served on its board until 2001, and he was also a leader in the Association to Protect the Adirondacks (now Protect The Adirondacks! — president in 1978), the Adirondack Mountain Reserve, the Adirondack Chapter of The Nature Conservancy (co-founder in 1973), The Adirondack Council (“legal co-founder” in 1975), and the State University of New York’s College of Environmental Science and Forestry (trustee from 1978 to 1997). He was best known for serving on the board of the Adirondack Park Agency (APA) from 1979 to 1997.

He looked back on his APA service with mixed emotions. He was proud that so much of the wild and rural land that he loved had been saved, but he regretted that the early APA forced rules on his neighbors that were too strict.  “There were times when it bothered me,” Savage said.  “The [APA] staff would object to a particular building being painted yellow instead of green.  There’s no room for the Agency to get involved in matters of taste.”

Savage on the early APA’s overly restrictive policies

Arthur was a New York City guy, but his family had deep roots in the North Country and a long tradition of producing lawyers. His great-great grandfather, Augustus Cincinnatus Hand (1803-1878), moved to the Champlain Valley hamlet of Elizabethtown in 1831 and was elected to the New York State Senate and US House of Representatives.  His great-grandfather, also a lawyer, was asked to stand guard over abolitionist John Brown’s body in Lake Placid the night before Brown was buried

Arthur and his mother took the train to Elizabethtown every summer as soon as school let out. “What we mostly did there was play tennis,” he said.  “We hiked, camped, and swam. I was never much for hunting or fishing. In the very early days, back when people were content to rock on the porch for two weeks, we stayed in Elizabethtown.  Later on, we went over to the Ausable Club in Keene Valley to find things there that were not in Elizabethtown.  We passed five generations through that Elizabethtown house.”  The Hand family donated its 1849 home to the town in 1979, and today it is a museum and music venue. 

After graduating from Phillips Exeter Academy (1944) and serving in the US Navy during the postwar occupation of Japan, Arthur attended Princeton University (graduating in 1948) and Harvard Law School (1952).  A position in the American aristocracy in those days demanded that one also support charity, and many Ivy Leaguers checked that box simply by writing checks.  But Arthur jumped in with both feet.

The Temporary Study Commission on the Future of the Adirondacks (1968-70) was a turning point for the Park for two reasons. Its recommendations were dramatic and detailed, and Governor Nelson Rockefeller harnessed strong voter support to turn the most important ones into law. Arthur was not a member of that Commission, but his political career began there when its Chairman, Harold Hochschild, who was a close family friend, asked Arthur to draft legislation that would make it more difficult to change the Park’s geographic boundaries (the so-called “blue line”).  That law passed in 1972. 

In response to another Commission recommendation, Arthur helped organize the Adirondack Chapter of The Nature Conservancy (TNC) in 1973. Its first chairman was his step brother-in-law, Wayne Byrne, who owned a hardware store in Plattsburgh.  Arthur’s friend and collaborator, Paul Schaefer, chose Byrne because it would be easier for a permanent resident of the North Country to attend all the organizational meetings, and also, Savage said, because Byrne would do what they wanted him to do. 

Arthur also made sure that even though the group was a mere chapter of TNC, it would not have to send 50 percent of the funds it raised to the Nature Conservancy’s headquarters.  Wealthy Adirondackers were a catch for the Washington DC-based group, which was much smaller in the 1970s, so the North Country was granted an unusual degree of independence.

Co-founders of The Adirondack Conservancy: (l-r) Wayne Byrne, Paul Schaefer, Paul Jamieson, Arthur Savage

Arthur was not named to the board of the APA until 1979, but the board’s first chairman, Richard Lawrence, was married to his wife’s cousin. Another original APA commissioner, Peter Paine Jr., was a childhood acquaintance.  Arthur remembers that when Paine Jr. was a teenager, Paine Sr. asked Arthur to take the boy on an outing.  He was concerned that his son was spending too much time reading instead of playing outside.

Arthur watched with growing dismay as local opposition to the APA mounted after the law was passed.  Richard Lawrence “could be very intolerant,” Arthur said.  “Distant is a a good word.”

Although Arthur supported the APA’s restrictions on the development of private land, he felt that a more informal attitude of listening, learning, and staying flexible would have improved the agency’s reputation with local residents. Lawrence disagreed.  “We had to move quickly, and so we stepped on some toes,” he once said.

A turning point for the APA came in 1975, when the owners of two large housing developments brought separate lawsuits charging that the APA’s rules were so strict that they amounted to an unconstitutional “taking” of private property.   A ruling favorable to the developers would have destroyed the APA. 

In a law review article co-authored while the suit was moving through the court system, Arthur cited several decisions from the early 1970s and argued that a “quiet revolution” in the understanding of private property rights had taken place. The decisions showed that courts were now upholding zoning laws that aimed to protect aesthetic and environmental quality, he wrote.  It followed that in areas where legislatures have recognized that these qualities are especially important, such as the Adirondack Park, reasonable restrictions on the rights of private property owners could now be considered legitimate.  The APA law is reasonable, he wrote, because it regulates development instead of expressly forbidding it.

After the courts rejected the developers’ claims, organized local opposition to the APA began to subside.  It also helped when Richard Lawrence resigned as chairman and was replaced by Robert Flacke, a school guidance counselor and small business owner from Lake George. Flacke would later become Commissioner of the Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) and play an outsized role in the evolution of the Park.

Around the time of Ton-De-Lay and Wambat decisions, Arthur was invited by Arthur Crocker, director of the Association for the Protection of the Adirondacks (AfPA), to meet with the leaders of six other environmental organizations at the palatial offices of the Rockefeller Brothers Fund in midtown Manhattan.

“Half a dozen people were at that meeting, including a man named Bill Hurd, who came out of nowhere,” Savage said.  “He was anxious to start an environmental watchdog agency.  He wanted it to watch what the APA was doing, criticize it when it was not doing enough, and support it when it needed support.

Harold Jerry, the director of the Temporary Study Commission, was at that meeting.  John Adams of the National Resources Defense Council (NRDC) was there, too.  Adams said, ‘You’ve got hundreds of people who will support the Adirondacks with money. You’re not going to get a penny from the NRDC, but we will be one of your supporting organizations.’” The NRDC joined the Sierra Club, the AfPA, the Adirondack chamter of The Nature Conservancy, and three other organizations to form The Adirondack Council, and Arthur did the legal work to set it all up.  Today the Council has about 20,000 members and is the park’s most powerful advocate for wilderness.

Sometimes it only takes two people to make a deal.  In 1977, Arthur attended a conference at Lake Mohonk with DEC Commissioner Peter Berle.  “We went off to one of the lovely tea houses they have,” he said. Savage wanted to make Berle a two-part offer on behalf of The Adirondack Mountain Reserve, a private organization that owns thousands of acres in the High Peaks region, and he knew Berle was interested.  The Reserve’s property includes the exclusive Ausable Club, where Arthur had been going since his youth. In the 1970s the Club was running low on cash and looking to sell some of its land.  The sale was the first part.  The second part was the important one.

Conservation easements were not well known in 1977, but there had been a few deals where owners of scenic property had sold or donated their development rights to neighbors.  Back in 1970, the Temporary Study Commission had recommended that the state start purchasing “scenic easements” as a way of protecting open space in the Adirondacks without buying more land.  The state had not done it yet.

Arthur told the Commissioner that the Reserve was interested in selling some of its land to the state, and that it would also be willing to sell an easement that would allow recreational access to even more land. “Berle said to me, ‘if we can get started on this, I’ll go to Governor Carey and say, Governor, to make your name famous for all history, you had better look at this Adirondack territory.’” 

The Reserve sold 9,311 acres to the State in 1980. They also allowed the state to hold a conversation and recreational easement that opened up an additional 7,000 acres to the public. The easement deal was a critical early use of a legal technique that has become an internationally important land conservation tool.  Today, the DEC manages nearly 902,000 acres of land protected by a permanent conservation easement.  Almost all of these lands allow some form of public access, and 785,000 of the acres are in the Adirondack Park.  Elsewhere in New York State, more than 80 not-for-profit land trusts are actively negotiating conservation easements. And 61 million acres across the United States are protected in this way.  That is about as much acreage as the states of Pennsylvania, New York, and New Jersey combined.

Arthur Savage looks on as Reserve officers hand their deed to DEC Commissioner Peter Berle (third from right) on the summit of Noonmark Mountain, 1980

Arthur’s stories describe an era when environmental protection happened in the Adirondacks largely through the efforts of a small, elite group.  But in 1979, when the Governor appointed Arthur to the board of the Adirondack Park Agency, the men’s club was losing control of the movement. Not-for-profit groups with thousands of members were lobbying to strengthen land protection. On the other side were developers and property rights advocates, who were also organized and well-funded.  The APA became the referee, an essential but thankless task.

This change was highlighted in 1990, when Governor Mario Cuomo’s Commission on the Adirondacks in the 21st Century produced another report.  The Commission’s director, George Davis, had designed the original zoning plan that regulated private land inside the park back in 1973.  Peter Berle was its chairman. Harold Jerry, Richard Lawrence, and other leaders from the early 1970s were among the commissioners.  Once again, the recommendations were dramatic and detailed, with the goal of protecting the wild Adirondacks for future generations.  But times had changed.

When the report was released, the backlash was so intense that Governor Cuomo and other elected officials ran for cover. “I remember thinking it was a good idea to have the commission doing what it was charged to do,” Arthur said.  “We ought to look at things and see what should be done in the long run.  But the report was so far ahead of anything that people could swallow.  It was going to go nowhere.”

In 1990, powerful men still met privately to draft policy proposals, just as they do today.  But the story of the 21st century commission showed that when powerful people meet privately, the smart ones navigate by comparing their ideals against their assessment of what the public is willing to accept. 

I met Arthur on a sunny spring morning at his house in Pelham, a tidy village of doctors, lawyers, and bankers who take a half-hour train ride to their jobs in Manhattan.   He told me stories about the family heirlooms that surrounded us, like the carved wooden sideboard that was Learned Hand’s wedding gift to Gus, or the dress sword that was given to his maternal great-great grandfather when he took command of the First Asiatic Fleet.  Arthur and his wife, Harriet Boyd Hawes Savage (“Hat”), were getting ready to celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary, and the house was crowded with pictures of their four children and nine grandchildren.

My conversation with Arthur was part of an oral history project that recorded the recollections of 100 North Country people who were involved in the environmental movement and its opposition in the last half of the 20th Century.  The project resulted in two books:  A Wild Idea (2021) and the forthcoming Adirondack Green (2027).  The conversation was transcribed, hand-corrected by Arthur, and edited for readability. Non-commercial users can download a copy of the corrected 48-page transcript here. For other uses, including access to the audio file, please contact XXX.

Bonus:  Arthur tells a funny story about Augustus Hand’s visits to Augustus Paine, Peter Paine Jr.’s grandfather

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Adirondack Green

Matt McCabe

Matt McCabe (1958-2021), a native of Elizabethtown, NY, was the author and singer of “The APA Song (It’s Insane),” which was released in 1979 and re-recorded and released in 1989.  He also released a CD, “These Adirondacks,” in 1993.  His dobro player on these recordings is the noted Plattsburgh musician Junior Barber (1944-2017).   Matt left Elizabethtown in 1994, moved to Saratoga Springs, and operated the Saratoga Guitar & Music Center there until his death.  He was interviewed by phone in 2020.

The APA Song was in my head a long time, and it finally came together in the summer of 1978. I dropped out of Syracuse University and drove west with a couple of friends in a beat-up Grand Torino station wagon.  When we got to the west coast, my buddy was going to meet his sister, but she wasn’t there.  We had no money.  Where are we going to sleep?  We drove down to the Pacific Ocean and buried the car in brush and watched the sunset.  We had beers and vodka and a couple of cans of beans.  We were sitting around a campfire, heating up the cans, and in a moment of elation I reached over and grabbed a hot can and burned the shit out of my hand.   I got mad and I said, “this is f**cking insane.”  But then I said, “that is the chorus to the song!”  I needed a chorus and I got it there.  That’s how it all came together.

I had grown up in the Adirondacks and I was angry for the people who were affected. My folks owned 140 acres but were only allowed to subdivide 8 acres. I wasn’t a rabid protestor, but I thought it was unfair.

We tried to record the song in a homemade studio in Willsboro, NY at the end of 1978.  I asked six guys to show up at 8:30 am.  It was 20 below zero and nobody showed up. It was a catastrophe.  But I didn’t want to give up, even though the studio owner took my money.  We finally recorded it in Burlington, Vermont.  The engineer was James Starbuck, who had a studio in Westport NY. He was by far the best guy I knew.  He knew what he was doing. We finally worked it out in the summer of 1979.

I don’t like looking at pictures of myself from those days or even listening to my playing from back then, but we were operating based on what we knew.  Roger Benedict and Junior Barber were idols of mine, and I was lucky to get them to play on the record. I played the crosscut saw – that was a gimmick.  In live performances, we sometimes fired up a chainsaw just to scare the shit out of people in bars.    

I was living above a bar called The Falcon’s Nest, which later burned down.  Most of the places I played have burned down.  That’s my legacy.  I did have a couple of groupies, though.

The photo shoot was interesting.  In those days, if you wanted to make a public announcement, you would walk into a bar and yell.  That’s what I did.  “There’s a photo shoot tomorrow at 10 am in front of my barn.”    The man on the sleeve of the 45 who’s holding a gun while sitting in a horse trough is Jerry Pulsifer, an Elizabethtown logger who was a legendary figure.  I’m behind the horse on the left.

On the back cover, Pulsiver is sitting in front.  On the left with the ax handle is Roger Benedict, and that is his friendly face.  Next to him is Tom Beaton, who didn’t play on the CD but was one of my best friends. I’m wearing the trucker cap, and Jim Strong is holding the gun. We just took a picture of whoever showed up. The photo was absolutely crucial to the success of the song.

I had to coordinate the photos and pressing the 45 with no money.  Everything had to get back to me before I enrolled at the University of Vermont in the fall of 1979.  The boxes arrived two or three days before I was going to go back to school.  They came on a Greyhound Bus, which we met in front of the Park Motor Inn in Elizabethtown.   My sister and I had to hand-correct the sleeve because the drummer we were expecting didn’t show up for the actual gig.  Then we ran around dropping off 45s everywhere we could.

We went to Valley Vending, which owned every jukebox in the Adirondacks.  The owner was Bob Prescott, a cousin of Roger’s, and he was patient with me because he was fond of Roger.  We went up to his house and loaded the song onto the jukebox at about ten bars, starting in E-town.  Bob Prescott took the first couple hundred copies.  I don’t know how many jukeboxes they ended up on.  Joan Crain was a master blues guitar player and also a part-time DJ in Plattsburgh on WKDR.  I gave it to her and she put it on the air. I think we sold 1,000 copies of the song.

I re-recorded the song in 1989 with different musicians and released another batch of 45s.  These did not have a photo sleeve. And in 1993 I put out a CD of songs called “These Adirondacks,” which was kind of the other side of the coin. I was not so angry any more, and I was more appreciate of what we have up here.

Matt was a well-known performer in Saratoga Springs who was known for his generosity.  In his obituary Sarah Craig, executive director of local music venue Caffe Lena, had this remembrance:  “The music community in Saratoga is small . . . and he was certainly one of the key players. He opened his shop on Caroline Street right around the time I moved to Saratoga and so I have always thought of him as one of the anchors of downtown. If you were involved in music in any way in Saratoga, you knew and worked with Matt and thought of him as a colleague.”

In 2020, when Caffe Lena was getting its Music School off the ground, Craig stopped by Saratoga Guitar to see if she could buy some refurbished instruments that could be loaned out to keep costs low for anyone who wanted to be part of the school  “[McCabe] took me into this back room where he just had mountains of instruments in cases and just said basically ‘Take what you want. We’ll make sure it’s in good enough condition to play and we’ll get these kids started.’”

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Adirondack Green

Harold K. Hochschild

Harold Hochschild, Chairman of the Temporary Study Commission on the Future of the Adirondacks, watches as Governor Nelson Rockefeller signs the Adirondack Park Agency Act in 1971. Behind him are Commissioners (l-r) Julien Adams, Peter S. Paine Jr., Whitman Daniels, Henry Diamond, Robert Hall, and Richard Lawrence.

This post is under construction. For more information on Harold Hochschild, see his Wikipedia entry.

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Adirondack Green

Frederick O’Neal

Frederick O’Neal (1905-1992) spent most of his time in the theater world, cofounding the American Negro Theatre in Harlem, which launched the careers of Sidney Poitier, Harry Belafonte, and Ruby Dee. His own career included four decades of steady gigs on Broadway, in film, and on television as a character actor. He called Harlem home and rarely, if ever, ventured upstate. So how did this thespian end up being one of the pivotal leaders in saving the Adirondack Park?

“He had never been north of Glens Falls in his life,” according to George Davis, a staff member of the 1968 state commission which included O’Neal as its token African-American. “He did not have the foggiest idea of what the Adirondacks even looked like at the beginning of things, but he believed very much in the job.”

“He was a quick study and a shrewd judge of people,” added
Peter Paine, who served with O’Neal on the commission and the subsequent campaign to create the Adirondack Park Agency. “He knew how to hold an audience. He had a presence.”

O’Neal is the subject of “Forever Wild For All,” which I published in New York Archives magazine in 2022. The article also tells the story of Dollie Robinson, a black Queens politician who, as far as we know, never went camping — but whose vision of a Park for everyone helped protect the Adirondacks at a crucial moment. To get a free download of the article, sign up for my email newsletter.

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Welcome to Adirondack Green!

Thank you for signing up for my newsletter! Get your free download here: https://bradedmondson.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/archives_magazine_spring_2022_edmondson.pdf

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A Wild Idea Adirondack Green

Full Documentary

Click on the screen below to watch the one-hour documentary based on “A Wild Idea” I produced with Paul Frederick for Mountain Lake PBS, with support from The Adirondack Experience. Remember to choose “full screen,” because the scenery shots are incredible.

If you like what you see, please sign up below to get a monthly newsletter with new releases, events, and more. Thanks for watching!

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A Wild Idea Adirondack Green

Temporary Study Commission

A black and white photograph of a large group of men gathered around a table in a meeting room, with some individuals standing and others sitting. They appear to be engaged in discussion, with papers and cups on the table and a curtain in the background.

The Temporary Study Commission on the Future of the Adirondacks (TSCFA) was appointed in 1968 by New York Governor Nelson A. Rockefeller to investigate issues that would have an impact on Adirondack Park use including issues pertaining to private and public lands, wildlife, forests, minerals, water, air, transportation, economy, recreation, and local government. Because so many of its recommendations became law, its vision shaped the park as it exists today.

This post is under construction

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Welcome to Adirondack Green!

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A Wild Idea

Mountain Lake Journal

On August 6, Brad was interviewed by Thom Hallock, host of “Mountain Lake Journal” on Mountain Lake Public Broadcasting (WCFE-Plattsburgh). Watch the 16-minute interview below.

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A Wild Idea

Interview by Erin Tobin

On August 5, Brad gave an online presentation to the monthly book club of The Preservation League of New York State. His 30-minute slideshow based on the book begins at 3:50; a lively interview by Erin Tobin, PLNYS’s VP for Policy and Preservation and incoming executive director of Adirondack Architectural Heritage, begins at 43:25.

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A Wild Idea

WAMC Interview

On July 17, Brad was interviewed by Pat Bradley, veteran correspondent for WAMC. The 15-minute interview covers the long process of gathering interviews for the book, reactions in the North Country, and Brad’s plans for Volume 2:

https://www.wamc.org/post/brad-edmondson-talks-about-his-book-creation-adirondack-park-agency

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A Wild Idea

“All Brains and No Heart”

James Hotaling

On July 8, Brad was interviewed online by Jim Hotaling, a planner who began his 30-year career at the Adirondack Park Agency in 1977. Hotaling’s job was persuading local officials to pass zoning plans that met APA standards, despite overwhelming opposition. He succeeded, slowly, by asking locals about their hopes and dreams. He said that for all of its conceptual brilliance, the original plan had a significant flaw because it was “all brains and no heart.”

Several APA alumni and scholars tuned in to the online session, producing an unusually in-depth session. Brad’s comments start at 4:00, and Hotaling’s questions are at 25:45.